20 Best Books About Surfing (2023 Update)

"wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —jared diamond, pulitzer prize-winning author of guns, germs, and steelin this 10th anniversary edition, yvon chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of patagonia, inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. from his youth as the son of a french canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, let my people go surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

This tome is the most comprehensive visual history of surfing to date, marking a major cultural event as much as a publication. following three and a half years of meticulous research, it brings together hundreds of images to chart the evolution of surfing as a sport, a lifestyle, and a philosophy.the book is arranged into five chronological chapters, tracing surfing culture from the first recorded european contact in 1778 by captain james cook to the global and multi-platform phenomenon of today. utilizing institutions, collections, and photographic archives from around the world, and with accompanying essays by the world's top surf journalists, it celebrates the sport on and off the water, as a community of 20 million practitioners and countless more devotees, and as a leading influence on fashion, film, art, and music.an unrivaled tribute to the breadth, complexity, and richness of surfing, this book is a must-have for any serious player on the surfing scene and anybody who aspires to the surfing lifestyle. as one surfing scribe has declared, "there has never been a book like this, and there will never be another one again."

Sometimes life's waves knock you down; other times, life might seem to sweep you along powerless. but the choice is always yours to swim back up to the light. legendary world champion surfer shaun tomson and international bestselling poet-philosopher noah benshea join forces to offer you insight on a path of purpose, hope, and faith. this timely guidebook alternates between tomson's inspiring experiential essays and benshea's spiritual commentary that lift the soul, all accented with stunning full-color surfing photographs. after losing his son, tomson walked the bitter road of loss and crossed from darkness into the light. the surfer and the sage addresses the eighteen relentless, breaking waves of life, from loss and aging to relationships and depression, and guides you to transformation. it is not a list of rules to follow that guarantee success, health, or wealth, but rather a collection of advice from two guides who have traveled far and wide and suffered deeply, but still look forward to tomorrow with faith and hope.

From respected surfing authority matt warshaw, the history of surfing presents a breathtaking and complete look at the history and culture of the sport. "meticulously researched, smartly written, beautifully laid out … required reading."–outside magazine matt warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. after five years of research and writing, warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. at nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, the history of surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. the obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. here, at last, is the definitive history of surfing. the perfect gift: packed with stunning photographs, this exhaustive history of surfing makes a superb present for surfers, beach bums, photography lovers, and history buffs. expert author: matt warshaw began riding waves in 1969 and even had a brief, undistinguished, resume-padding career as a pro surfer during the early 1980s. he worked at surfer magazine for six years and became editor in 1990. readers love it: in hundreds of 5-star ratings, reviewers rave, calling this "the best, most comprehensive and enjoyable single source read available today on surfing" that's definitely "not just for surfers." perfect for: fans of surf culture, history, or photography anyone looking for a unique coffee table book or beautiful gift adding to the shelf alongside classic surfing books like big wave surfer, clark little: the art of waves, and william finnegan's pulitzer prize-winning barbarian days: a surfing life

Discover the devotional practice of wave riding through an atlas of fabled and iconic surf locations from around the world. surfing is a way of life. it is communion with place. living with and by the tides, surfers are attuned to the environment. they experience the sea at all seasons, learn the movements of the ocean, feel the moods of the break. to surf is to be at one with nature, in an intimacy that imbues any spot with a certain magic. an atlas of stories and surf breaks, surf atlas celebrates both the practice and the places of surfing. explore the world's most unique, unusual, and most-loved surf destinations–from catching waves under the northern lights in iceland and trekking across the arctic tundra in russia in search of the perfect break, to the best waves in california and riding monsters at mavericks. this book moves beyond sunshine and palm trees to get to the heart of a way of life that is in communion with nature and place.

– an incomparable new photo book about the international surf culture by stephan vanfleteren- showcases captivating portraits of some of the world's surf iconswith surf tribe, photographer stephan vanfleteren shows that there is far more to surf culture than just sport and competition. surfing is also about a deep admiration and respect for the ocean, as well as the feeling of insignificance when confronted with the forces of nature. surfers use the waves for fun, but also to forget and to battle, both with others and with themselves. vanfleteren looks beyond the traditional borders of the united states and australia and searches the globe for people who live in places where sea and land meet. he documents a fluid community, with nature as its sole leader. he has sought out young talent, living icons, and old legends, both competitive and free surfers. the photographs here are serene black and white portraits in vanfleteren's well-known, haunting style; as always, he reaches below the surface and goes to the core of his subjects. included, amongst many others, are kelly slater, gerry lopez, john florence, mickey munoz, filipe toledo and stephanie gilmore. surfer, journalist, and actor gerry lopez has contributed the foreword. surf tribe has been exhibited in knokke-heist (belgium), kunsthal rotterdam (netherlands), gallery kahmann amsterdam (netherlands). the next exhibition will be in june 2019 in france.

The biggest, most comprehensive, reference guide to the waves on "planet surf" the world stormrider surf guide explores every dynamic surf zone known to man, from world-famous beaches to obscure reefs on the fringes of the known surf world. with completely revised and updated text, as well as painstakingly researched maps, this mammoth book is the largest collection of surf-spot information ever compiled. each zone includes detailed analysis of the surf spots and swell forecasting, plus the lowdown on when to go, weather, accommodations, food, culture, hazards, the local scene and much more. a unique set of symbols and statistics make vital surf information instantly accessible. as an added bonus,the world stormrider surf guide includes a global gallery of professional surf photographs. with over 260 detailed maps and 600 superb photos, this mammoth book is an essential tool and the ultimate surf travel resource for all globe-trotting waveriders.

32 classic big wave surfing stories from the sport’s pioneers john long’s classic collection of big wave surfing stories heralded a new era in surfing literature. focusing on those elite athletes who live to challenge the ocean’s fury, the big drop is more than just another surfing book. it is both an extraordinary collection of thirty-two true tales and a treasure-trove of insight into the evolution of big-wave surfing—with particular focus on the pioneers of the 1950s and 1960s and the skills necessary to challenge huge waves. providing a comprehensive look at the sport’s eras, locations, and legends, with a host of stunning images and a glossary of surfing terms, it is a truly unforgettable look at the obsession of those who face down monstrous waves. revealing the tantalizing and terrifying truth about riding big waves, the big drop is a must for any surfer inclined to tackle large surf in thought or in fact.

From the author of adventures of a journeyman surferlatest edition: v.2.0, revised, expanded and improved. longboard + shortboard, with new images and detailed explanations. includes detailed shortboard section* with multiple images and analysis of common moves including off-the-lip and aerials, plus common errors to avoid.- new information, additional graphics, more detailed explanations. – new layout for easier reading (and kindle viewing). *for an all-shortboard experience try the dvd: surf better – shortboard in both regular and goofy-foot editions. surf better is a must-have book for surfers, ocean-goers and anyone looking for a simple, effective way to get in shape and stay there. a complete surfing program including fitness, tactics and techniques, wave knowledge, and more. fully illustrated. – instructional surfing photos- surfing technique and check list- dry land surf school with workouts and agility drills – understanding waves and swell direction – surfing a new break- how to read waves, rips and boils – using tides and currents. part i: surfing techniquepreparation and takeoff – getting pitched, pearling: waves & tactics – takeoff tips – dealing with backwash – turns – shortboard action: turns, off-the-lip/foam, air – turning: arm, shoulder and upper-body action – outside arm snap – form follows function – turning off of the foam – turn or snap off the lip – off the lip/snapback: step by step details – off the lip and air – getting air – common errors – foot position – frontside vs. backside – cross-stepping and nose riding – technical practice checklist – leash management and the "houdini moment" part ii: know your oceansea, swell and waves – wave formation and propagation – how waves travel – how fast do waves move? – what defines "deep water" and "shallow water?" – ocean facts part iii: know your breakswell direction and the "magic number" – tides – wave refraction and island wave shadows – the effects of wind – how waves behave in shallow water – interpreting swell information – understanding size vs. power – using reef boils – using currents part iv: dry land surf schoolfull flexibility, agility and surf simulation section with dozens of exercises and workout packages. "…then he floated an "off the lip, center my ass by bringing my board back under me recovery"-pretty awesome move and proof that his book is working." note on the imagessome readers have expressed dissatisfaction that the images in the book are black and white, not full color. using color images in the print edition would have required a price of $40 or $50 per book just to break even. clearly this was not an option. (the images in the kindle edition are all the original full color.) there have also been some comments about the quality of the images. one problem is that printing on glossy or semi-gloss paper (which would have preserved the image quality) would also raise the cost to a prohibitive level. again, the images in the kindle edition look better than those in the print edition because there is no issue of paper quality.the other problem is that the best image in terms of quality is not always the best image to illustrate the point at hand. taking good surf pictures is really pretty easy (shoot at 7 to 12fps and you're guaranteed to capture some great moments), but getting a good, clear image to illustrate a particular point, with the surfer's foot or arm or body in exactly the position you want to discuss, is amazingly hard. for the purposes of this book, sometimes demonstrating the point had to take precedence over maximum quality.

For legendary surfer laird hamilton, hundred foot waves represent the ultimate challenge. as susan casey travels the globe, hunting these monsters of the ocean with hamilton’s crew, she witnesses first-hand the life or death stakes, the glory, and the mystery of impossibly mammoth waves. yet for the scientists who study them, these waves represent something truly scary brewing in the planet’s waters. with inexorable verve, the wave brilliantly portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious.

Fifty places to surf before you die is a beautifully illustrated guide to the most thrilling surfing destinations in the world. covering quintessential beaches, including: oahu's north shore; australia's gold coast; and of course, malibu, california, the book also invites you to discover such unexpected gems as the amazon and the gulf of alaska. from the frigid waters off iceland's reykjanes peninsula to nazaré, portugal, where in 2013 garrett mcnamara broke a world record for surfing the tallest wave (78 feet!), fifty places to surf takes readers on a wide-roving adventure, divulging the details that make each venue unique–and plenty of tips for those who aspire to surf there. featuring interviews with seasoned surfing experts such as pro surfer joel parkinson and billabong executive shannan north, fifty places to surf before you die is an essential travel companion for surfers of all levels who are looking to catch that perfect wave.

This platinum tome is the most comprehensive visual history of surfing to date, marking a major cultural event as much as a publication. following three and a half years of meticulous research, it brings together more than 900 images to chart the evolution of surfing as a sport, a lifestyle, and a philosophy.the book is arranged into five chronological chapters, tracing surfing culture from the first recorded european contact in 1778 by captain james cook to the global and multi-platform phenomenon of today. utilizing institutions, collections, and photographic archives from around the world, and with accompanying essays by the world's top surf journalists, it celebrates the sport on and off the water, as a community of 20 million practitioners and countless more devotees, and as a leading influence on fashion, film, art, and music.an unrivaled tribute to the breadth, complexity, and richness of surfing, this book is a must-have for any serious player on the surfing scene and anybody who aspires to the surfing lifestyle. as one surfing scribe has declared, "there has never been a book like this, and there will never be another one again."

Author lara einzig profiles more than two dozen inspiring female surfers from around the globe—from activists to artists—who are breaking new ground on land and finding healing, joy, and community in the water.there is maya gabeira, a brazilian woman who surfed the biggest wave of anyone in 2020; bonnie wright, the british actress, activist, and author; risa mara machuca, who runs a free surfing camp in mexico for local children; and zara noruzi, an iranian exile who found peace on the water in australia.through candid interviews on the transformational power of surfing, and with immersive photography of beautiful beaches, surf shacks, and favorite breaks, einzig captures the life-altering strength and resilience that these women discover in their connection to the waves. women making waves captures the innate, spiritual essence of our connection to the ocean, inviting us all to paddle out.

The evolution of the surfboard, from traditional hawaiian folk designs to masterpieces of mathematical engineering to mass-produced fiberglass. surfboards were once made of wood and shaped by hand, objects of both cultural and recreational significance. today most surfboards are mass-produced with fiberglass and a stew of petrochemicals, moving (or floating) billboards for athletes and their brands, emphasizing the commercial rather than the cultural. surf craft maps this evolution, examining surfboard design and craft with 150 color images and an insightful text. from the ancient hawaiian alaia, the traditional board of the common people, to the unadorned boards designed with mathematical precision (but built by hand) by bob simmons, to the store-bought longboards popularized by the 1959 surf-exploitation movie gidget, board design reflects both aesthetics and history. the decline of traditional alaia board riding is not only an example of a lost art but also a metaphor for the disintegration of traditional culture after the republic of hawaii was overthrown and annexed in the 1890s.in his text, richard kenvin looks at the craft and design of surfboards from a historical and cultural perspective. he views board design as an exemplary model of mingei, or art of the people, and the craft philosophy of soetsu yanagi. yanagi believed that a design's true beauty and purpose are revealed when it is put to its intended use. in its purest form, the craft of board building, along with the act of surfing itself, exemplifies mingei. surf craft pays particular attention to bob simmons's boards, which are striking examples of this kind of functional design, mirroring the work of postwar modern california designers.surf craft is published in conjunction with an exhibition at san diego's mingei international museum.

Explore the world's most thrilling waves with epic surf breaks of the world. from namibia's wind-swept skeleton bay to java's g-land, discover the best place to 'hang ten', whatever your surfing ability. accompanied by a series of stunning photographs, maps and beautiful illustrations as well as first-person stories from surf writers all across the globe, including pulitzer prize winner william finnegan, this is the quintessential guide for surfers looking for their next epic break.with 200 destinations, from australia's bells beach to the coral-flecked islands of the maldives, you're sure to find your perfect break in this 328-page, hardcover book. about lonely planet: lonely planet is a leading travel media company and the world's number one travel guidebook brand, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. you'll also find our content online, on mobile, video and in 14 languages, 12 international magazines, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more.

Surf's up! taschen's perpetual calendars for those of you whose datebooks have been replaced by smartphones, taschen has created the new 365 day-by-day series so that you can still enjoy the warm analog feeling of marking every day with the turn of a page.each day you'll discover a vintage photograph or graphic that will have you waxing nostalgic for bygone beach culture and ensure a constant source of inspiration right on your desktop. at the end of the year, just turn back to the beginning and start again!

Surf's up! taschen's perpetual calendars for those of you whose datebooks have been replaced by smartphones, taschen has created the new 365 day-by-day series so that you can still enjoy the warm analog feeling of marking every day with the turn of a page.each day you'll discover a vintage photograph or graphic that will have you waxing nostalgic for bygone beach culture and ensure a constant source of inspiration right on your desktop. at the end of the year, just turn back to the beginning and start again!

Where do surfing waves come from? what makes everyone different? why do some peel perfectly and others just close out? why, some days, do waves come in sets, and others days they dont? how do the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? surf science answers all these questions and many more. now in its third edition, this is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfers point of view. with illustrations and examples from around the world, it fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf.

Where do surfing waves come from? what makes everyone different? why do some peel perfectly and others just close out? why, some days, do waves come in sets, and others days they dont? how do the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? surf science answers all these questions and many more. now in its third edition, this is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfers point of view. with illustrations and examples from around the world, it fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf.

"a voodoo wave." "the everest of the ocean." what surfer in his right mind would choose to surf maverick's with its 50-degree murky water, 60-foot faces, punishing rock bottom, and shifting central california currents over riding the warm, blue, big waves of hawaii? but maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. each winter, starting in october, an elite corps from around the world journey to maverick's to test themselves on its cold, forbidding wavesbecause challenge, above all else, motivates the big-wave surfer. with heart-stopping photography and an exceptional, driving text, maverick's tracks the 1/2ve most dangerous days in the break's history, including its first casualty: big-wave celebrity mark foo, who died on the morning of his very first visit. surf journalist matt warshaw weaves into this vivid record the complete and unconventional history of big-wave surfing, from its ancient hawaiian origins through to the modern drama of tow-in surfers. like into thin air, maverick's promises to transcend its core audience, appealing to the huge armchair market that is enthralled by the sporting life lived at the extreme of danger.